Researchers led by an archaeologist at the University of Sydney propose that eyed needles represented a significant technological innovation for adorning clothing, marking a shift from utilitarian to social and cultural functions in dress.
“Eyed needles are pivotal in prehistory as they signify a transition in clothing from practical to social purposes,” explains Dr. Ian Gilligan, Honorary Associate in Archaeology at the University of Sydney. Initially, stone tools were used to prepare animal skins for thermal insulation. However, the advent of bone awls and later eyed needles enabled the creation of fitted and embellished garments, prompting the question of why clothing evolved into a means of self-expression and societal status.
In their recent Science Advances paper, “Paleolithic eyed needles and the evolution of dress,” Dr. Gilligan and colleagues reinterpret recent discoveries on clothing development. They explore how clothing, once a necessity in certain climates, evolved into a universal social requirement.
Eyed needles first emerged approximately 40,000 years ago in Siberia, representing a notable advancement over bone awls, which were sufficient for basic garment construction. Eyed needles, modified from bone awls with perforated holes (eyes) for sewing sinew or thread, facilitated the creation of more intricate and decorated clothing.
“While bone awls were already used for tailored garments, eyed needles enabled the production of layered and ornamented clothing, incorporating beads and other decorations,” Dr. Gilligan explains. This evolution coincided with the need for continuous clothing during the last ice age, replacing traditional body decoration methods like ocher painting and scarification, which were impractical in colder climates.
According to Dr. Gilligan, the transition to clothing as decoration was crucial, as eyed needles allowed for delicate sewing necessary for garment embellishment. This shift not only enhanced clothing’s aesthetic appeal but also promoted social cohesion and cultural identity within communities.
The regular use of clothing facilitated the formation of larger, more complex societies, enabling human migration to colder climates while fostering cooperation based on shared clothing styles and symbols. The skills developed in clothing production contributed to sustainable living and long-term community prosperity.
Today, clothing remains a fundamental social practice, influencing how individuals perceive themselves and interact with their environment. Dr. Gilligan’s future research will delve into the psychological impacts and functions of clothing beyond its historical evolution.
